Ancuta Sarca
IN CONVERSATION

WITH VÉRONIQUE NYBERG AND

Ancuta Sarca

“Wow! I love them, they are so feminine. They are amazing. I love the colour. I love the texture. How did you get this inspiration?” Senior Perfumer Véronique Nyberg is walking back and forth in front of the cameras, admiring her feet. Every so often she stops and raises a foot, tilting it from side to side to take in the full snapshot of the purples, blues and greens of the pointed kitten heel mules she’s slipped on. Her medium may be perfumery, but Nyberg is a sharply dressed woman who clearly appreciates the craftsmanship and appeal of fashion. Fragrance, meet footwear – you look great together.

Nyberg is here in an east London studio for the latest Artists of Note shoot, which brings to life Bluebell & Wild Strawberry, her ode to spring and a new, modern take on the traditional bluebell. The ongoing Artists of Note series invites creatives to imagine the brand’s fragrances through their unique mediums, all in the name of expressing the connection we forge with scent. For this iteration, Nyberg’s collaborator – and the mind behind the amazing shoes – is Ancuta Sarca, an emerging London-based shoe designer and alumnus of the acclaimed Fashion East incubator programme. An expert in fusing deadstock materials, heels and trainers together to create unexpected shapes with contrasting details, Sarca’s approach is a conscious yet playful one, earning her collaborations with Nike, Dion Lee and Crocs, not to mention a high-profile following from the likes of Rihanna, SZA, Bella Hadid and even Cher. A pointed kitten heel is her signature, making the deadstock velvet-and-leather mules she’s made in response to Bluebell & Wild Strawberry unmistakeably Ancuta Sarca.

It was very important to keep my signature silhouette, the pointy kitten heel, with upcycled elements. I wanted to evoke the same positive energy. The spring, the flower, all these very fresh elements.

ANCUTA SARCA

SHOE DESIGNER

“It was very important to keep my signature silhouette, the pointy kitten heel, with upcycled elements,” Sarca explains as her and Nyberg sit down to chat about their collaboration. “I really wanted to express the same manner of work that I have working with upcycling products, and I think the flower element and the softness of the velvet were exactly what I pictured when I started designing. I wanted to evoke the same positive energy. The spring, the flower, all these very fresh elements.” Sarca is referencing the oversized soft leather flower that adorns the front of the shoes – another of her signatures. It’s a synergy Nyberg immediately spots: “I really like your idea to put the flower in the centre like I did the bluebell. The bluebell part of the fragrance is very important. It gives you this floral contrasted with the woody.”

AS Final Work

THE FEELING OF THE FOREST

Bluebell & Wild Strawberry is by no means your traditional floral-fruity fragrance. Clean and slightly crisp on top with a dewy, woody base, it’s a scent of contrasts synonymous with Nyberg’s vivid memories of a childhood spent roaming the bluebell-strewn Alpine woods in France’s Alps-de-Haute Provence. “I wanted to have a very contrasted fragrance to highlight the energy and the feeling I had in the forest. This vivid colour of all those little flowers on the green carpet of the forest is amazing. And I really wanted to translate that into this fragrance. Spring is the right moment."

And that springtime feeling, with all its hope and optimism and arborescent aromas, is one Romanian-born Sarca identifies with immediately. “It smells amazing. It really reminds me of spring and flowers and blossoms. Especially of Easter time in Romania. For me, it's one of my most favourite memories that I have related to scent. And it really reminds me of that. And fresh grass. It's amazing.”

These references to nature happen often as the two women chat about their creative mediums. It has both inspired and guided them – along with a strong familial influence. For Sarca, who grew up in Romanian countryside, her upbringing has formed the foundations of her brand today. “My grandparents worked in agriculture their entire life, so for them, respect for nature and what nature offers to us is a very important thing. The way we give back and the way we treat the environment. That's why I really want to be conscious of the way I produce, about the environment, and make sure I learned that lesson from the way I grew up.” Nyberg nods in agreement: “I grew up on the border of Provence and the Alps where the nature was amazing. My grandparents had a farm and all my source of inspiration – the flowers, the herbs, the plants – was there. My grandma really taught me a lot, but without me knowing it. I think it's so important today that we realise the impact of nature.”

EXPRESSING THE FRAGRANCE

A break in the day’s shoot marks the set-up of Ancuta’s workspace in the studio for a film depicting her creative process. Craftsmanship, creative freedom and expressiveness are cornerstones of Artists of Note and reflect the freedom Molton Brown perfumers are afforded when they make fragrances. It’s about more than creating a scent to respond to a brief: like with Nyberg and Bluebell & Wild Strawberry, it’s about memories, lived experiences and emotions, and how they deepen the connection the wearer has with the scent. “It's sometimes about ingredients, sometimes materials,” Nyberg explains. “So if the ingredient is talking to me, giving me a source of imagination, I start from the ingredients. Sometimes brands tell me a story and it’s the emotion that I get from that story. But it's always something that touches my memories and my emotions that I try to translate.”

Watching Sarca recreate her process of creating a pair of shoes as the cameras pan around her, it’s clear she works in a more tactile way. “I start my work with designing, but not necessarily drawing and sketching,” she explains. “Whenever I have the materials, I sculpt them and drape them. I feel like I have more control if I design in 3D rather than drawing – I feel like drawing for me is a bit flat and I can’t visualise the final product as easily as I do with draping and manipulating the fabrics onto the heel shapes. I'm very hands on, I like to feel the material, see how it moulds onto the shape, how they behave as a sandal or a boot."

It's a long and meticulous process, but one that affords Sarca the opportunity to create limited runs of pairs of shoes, and she thrives off the unpredictability of working with deadstock. “You can't really imagine what to expect sometimes. I really like the exclusivity side of it, that sometimes you can only make a certain number of pairs, but not mass produce. I really love that. Sometimes deadstock can come in limited quantities. Sometimes you make a sample, but then you can't really put it in production. So it can come with some challenges.”

CREATIVE CONNECTIONS

As the day wraps up, Nyberg and Sarca exchange shoes and fragrance for the cameras. There is genuine excitement and awe at each other’s creations and a creative connection that transcends their differing mediums. “It really captures everything that you've said,” Sarca says as she spritzes the fragrance. “And the spring. The flowers, the fresh energy that spring comes with. It's everything that I wanted to incorporate into the shoes.” Nyberg grins. “And I will be very good wearing these and thinking about the bluebell fragrance with these on my feet!” she says as she models the mules. “It's incredible because today, when I see finally the fragrance and you trying it, I realise from a creative idea, it's alive. It's so beautiful because [the shoes] anchor all the ideas I had when I created this fragrance. For me, it’s a very nice emotional moment.”

Words & interview by Francesca Cotton

BLUEBELL & WILD STRAWBERRY

BLUEBELL &

WILD STRAWBERRY

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RE-CHARGE BLACK PEPPER

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BLACK PEPPER

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COASTAL CYPRESS & SEA FENNEL

COASTAL CYPRESS

& SEA FENNEL

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